lamb kulma: a tausug recipe from southern philippines

The Story Behind the Dish

Kulma is one of the great dishes of Tausug cuisine; the food tradition of the Tausug people of Sulu, in the southernmost reaches of the Philippine archipelago. It's a dish that carries centuries of history in every bite.

The Tausug have long been known as seafarers and traders, and Sulu sat at the crossroads of a vast maritime network connecting the Philippines, Borneo, Java, and the Arabian Peninsula. That history of exchange is written directly into the food. Kulma's warm spice blend, the kind that combines curry, cinnamon, and chili into something deeply aromatic- reflects the influence of Arab, Indian, and Malay traders who passed through these waters for hundreds of years. The coconut milk is unmistakably Southeast Asian. The peanut butter, Maranao in spirit, adds a richness that makes the sauce cling to the meat in the most satisfying way.

Kulma is traditionally made with beef or goat, braised low and slow in that fragrant, spiced coconut sauce until it can barely hold itself together. It's a dish made for gatherings- the kind of food that fills a kitchen with an incredible smell hours before anyone sits down to eat.

Arion's version uses lamb shanks from La Carne, and it's a brilliant swap. Lamb's natural richness and the slight gaminess of the shank hold up beautifully against the bold spice base and the lemongrass-spiked coconut sauce. The result is deeply savoury, warmly spiced, and absolutely made for a generous pile of steamed rice.

A Note on the Lamb

Lamb shanks are one of the great braising cuts — all bone, collagen and working muscle, which means they reward patience. The long, slow cook breaks down all that connective tissue into rich, glossy gelatin that thickens the sauce naturally and gives the meat a silky, fall-off-the-bone texture. You simply cannot rush them, and you shouldn't try.

If you're cooking this for the first time, don't be put off by the ingredient list. The method is genuinely straightforward — marinate, sear, build the sauce, braise, reduce. The hard work is just waiting. To watch the full recipe video click here.

Lamb Shank Kulma

Serves 4 · Prep 30 minutes + marinating · Cook 3 hours (or 1 hour pressure cooker)

Ingredients

For the lamb

• 4 lamb shanks

• 4 tbsp curry powder

• 2 tsp paprika

• 2 tsp cinnamon

• 2 tsp salt

• 1 tsp black pepper

• 2–3 tbsp lemon juice

• 2 tbsp neutral oil

For the kulma sauce

• 1 large onion, finely chopped

• 5 garlic cloves, minced

• 2 stalks lemongrass, bruised

• 400–500 ml beef or lamb broth

• 4 tbsp peanut butter

• 3 tbsp tomato paste

• 400 ml coconut milk

• Salt and pepper to taste

• 1–2 red chilies, optional

To garnish

• Roasted peanuts

• Fresh cilantro

• Fried shallots

• Red chilies

Method

1. Season: Mix curry powder, paprika, cinnamon, salt, pepper, and lemon juice into a thick paste. Rub all over the lamb and marinate for at least 30 minutes.

2. Sear: Heat oil and sear lamb on all sides until deeply golden. Remove.

3. Aromatics: Cook onion until soft and golden. Add garlic and optional chilies until fragrant.

4. Build: Return lamb to the pot. Pour in broth, then stir in peanut butter and tomato paste. Add lemon grass and coconut milk. Mix well.

5. Cook: Pressure cook on High for 45 minutes + 15-minute natural release, or cover and braise at 160°C for 2½–3 hours, until the lamb is very tender.

6. Reduce: Remove lamb and lemongrass. Simmer the sauce uncovered until thick and glossy. Season to taste.

7. Finish: Return lamb and coat generously in the kulma. Serve with optional roasted peanuts, chilies, cilantro, and fried shallots.